Le Cote D’Or—the golden hills of Burgundy absolutely glisten in the Fall. The leaves of some of the world’s most valued grape vines are taking their final bow before the cold winter sets in.
I’d been to Burgundy once before back in 2000…exactly one year before 9/11. It was a less complicated, more innocent time to travel, especially to wine regions where we always found treasured bottles to carry back on the plane.
Nonetheless, this was a wonderful trip. As in 2000, we stayed at the charming Hotel Le Cep, which by the way, is still fabulous and now has an elevated air of relaxed sophistication with impeccable service.
The delightful breakfasts each morning in the charming ‘cave’ make waking up early an anticipated event. Fresh croissants, including the coveted chocolate, await along with a large assortment of fresh artisan cheeses, fruit and other pastries. The coffee and espresso are robust, and the fresh squeezed orange juice somehow tastes sweeter than what we get at home.
Perhaps it’s the romance of time and place. I couldn’t help but wonder too if the taste is also related to the fact that food in France is mostly organic and locally sourced.
Le Cep was a delightful place to call ‘home’ while visiting Burgundy.
The reason for our trip was to explore the highly acclaimed villages of the regions to become familiar with the many French wine appellations. For a region that only produces two varietals, chardonnay and pinot noir, the selection is extensive and the flavor profiles of the many AOC’s are so different.
And, of course, traveling in the country that boasts the most Michelin starred restaurants in the world, is the perfect pairing for studying the wine.
There are some wonderful restaurants in Beaune. One of our best lunches was at Ma Cuisine. There I tasted the famed Bresse chicken that I’ve always read about but had never been able to find on previous trips. The Bresse chicken didn’t disappoint – plump, juicy and delicious.
The most spectacular meal and a restaurant I highly recommend was at Loiseau Des Vignes, right next door to Hotel Le Cep. Loiseau Des Vignes boasts an extensive wine by the glass selection – more than 70 selections impressively displayed along the wall in the slick enotech machines which keep the opened bottles fresh for many days. At one time, theirs was the largest selection of wines by the glass in all of France.
The food was superb. The escargot with the creamy pasta risotto pictured above was divine. Beaune is a place we’ll definitely return to. The Burgundy wines are some of the most interesting in the world. Having seen firsthand the beautiful (and highly valued) hills of Vosne Romanee, Pommard and Clos St. Jacques, the wines speak even louder to me. Their finesse and complexities are great fun to explore, contemplate and appreciate. Plus, they pair spectacularly with food.
More on these delicate wines to come.
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